Sunday, January 24, 2010

China Part IX Tourning the countryside near Yangshuo

Visiting a farmhouse outside Yangshuo.
Several generations of the same family have occupied this home for at least 300 years.

After the Kindergarten we had the choice of biking or riding through the countryside to the rustic old farmhouse. It was hot and humid and our group decided to ride in one of the jitneys.
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Once we had arrived at the farm house the bikes were parked in the outer courtyard and we were invited into the house.
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We first entered into the inner courtyard, a sort of open air anteroom.
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We were introduced to the occupants. Two brothers in their 70's and their wives. Several generations of their family had occupied the home and farm for over 300 years. They took us on a tour of some of the rooms of the house.
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Here, below, in a sitting room there were bowl shaped recessions in the floor. They were for building small fires to keep warn on colder days and nights.


They had a color TV and a refrigerator (We were told that the Chinese don't generally refrigerate things and they don't use ice in drinks.) which was in fact empty as we were told it would be. They buy their food fresh every day. Why they have a fridge if they don't use it is a mystery to me.
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It was interesting to note that in these austere and rather primitive rooms that one could find the new energy saving fluorescent light bulbs.

One of the wives displayed the scales that they still use and the kitchen.

There was an electric hot plate and crock pot. The wiring was generally exposed and on the outside of the walls. There was no chimney over the cooking area just an opening in the ceiling so the walls were blackened with soot.
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Mom started up the stairs to this room but it was apparently off limits and they brought her back down. What hidden secrets waited behind the door of the upper room?

Back in the inner courtyard our guide Steven explained that the Chinese people are quite superstitious and pointed out banners and such over the door into the house that were to scare away evil spirits. The mirror would frighten them when they see themselves and the scissors would cut them if they tried to enter. ?

Inside were the ubiquitous portraits of Chairman Mao.Still venerated by the underclasses as a hero.
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Back in the inner courtyard the ladies showed how they got their water for generations. I assumed that in the newer addition to the house that they likely have running water. But that's just my guess. My impression was that this was a working historical farm sort of on the lines of Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia or numerous other living museums.
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These are the feet of a hard working woman. She suffers from fungus under her toenails, perhaps caused by the constant dampness from working so many years in the rice paddies.
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She then showed us her reed hat and cape that is worn for protection from the rain while working in the fields.
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One of the 70+ brothers showed off his physical prowess by lifting a stone weight over his head and challenging those of us younger than him to do the same, then raised the ante by doing it on one foot. He was one strong and fit little dude!
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While the ladies stood by and watched Dian Thomas decided to give it a try as well.

Then he did it while on one knee.

He said that he owed his strength and longevity to something he drank daily.
We were ushered in to a room where they served us Mandarin oranges and then he showed us his secret tonic.
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The five poison wine. In a large glass bottle he was marinating seven poisonous creatures, I can't remember them all but it included snakes, scorpions, centipedes and spiders.
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He invited any of us to give it a try. Our guide Steven pointed out all of the ingredients.

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I volunteered to try it. He served up a helping for me in a shot glass.
It was crystal clear and it had very little taste. It was like drinking rubbing alcohol. He laughed at the face I made from the taste. I washed it down with another Mandarin orange.

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A few others tried it after I did.

Behind the traditional painting of a horse and rider was the ever present Chairman Mao.

Back in the inner courtyard one of the wives demonstrated how they get milk from soy beans in their mini hand mill.
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They invited some of us to give it a try. While in the corner one of the farmers demonstrated a spinning wheel.
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We continued to explore more rooms, one of which contained two coffins that had been prepared for families.
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On one of the walls were hung bunches of herbs, corn and grains for drying.
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We recongregated in the inner courtyard as the tour wound down.

Note the box with cash tips.

The hosts were very impressed by mom's vitality and were blown away by how many children, grandchildren, great-grands and great-great-grands that she has. They said she was very blessed. They see children as a blessing, and since the Chinese government's one child policy was enacted, having more than one child was a rare occurrence.
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They seemed to be impressed with her white hair. She enjoyed all of the attention and affection that the lavished upon her.

We made our last goodbyes and made our way back outside to the bikes and jitneys to continue our tour of the countryside.
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There of course were the ever present peddlers trying to make a sell before we got away. This little old lady was selling flowers and a toy with little wooden farm animals that were activated to move and bob by a weight at the end of strings attached to the figures.
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Next:
Lunch at a village restaurant in the country.

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